Composition for bleaching human hair

ABSTRACT

A water-free composition for the bleaching and brightening of human hair and with a simultaneous conditioning effect comprises
         a) at least one compound with a bleaching or brightening effect, in particular a peroxide and/or an ammonium salt, and   b) γ-oryzanol at a concentration of 0.001% to 5% by weight, calculated to the total composition.

The present invention concerns a new composition for the intensive, yet gentle bleaching and brightening of human hair.

The bleaching of human hair customarily consists of a process with the following steps:

Homogenous mixing of a water-free preparation, preferably a powder, comprising at least one compound with a bleaching or brightening effect, in particular a solid peroxide salt, preferably ammonium, potassium and/or sodium persulfate or earth alkali peroxide, with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution, application of this composition onto the hair, and rinsing after bleaching is completed. However, it has been known for some time that use of those components effective with regard to the bleaching, in particular the persulfates, especially the ammonium persulfate, in the requisite higher concentrations can lead to hair damage.

Efforts have already been made to solve this problem by (partial) substitution of the persulfates, however, so far the results have not been satisfactory.

It has now been found, and it is the object of the present invention, that addition of γ-oryzanol to bleaching compositions comprising anhydrous substances, in particular peroxides, as agents, surprisingly not only achieves an improved bleaching effect without causing major hair damage, it also improves the properties of the hair thus treated, in particular wet and dry combability, texture, volume and shine of the hair.

Object of the invention is also a process for the bleaching of human hair with a preparation obtained by mixing a water-free composition (A), comprising at least a one compound with a bleaching or brightening effect, preferably a peroxide with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide composition (B).

This task is solved by the addition of 0.001% to 10% by weight, calculated to the total composition, of γ-oryzanol.

The use of γ-oryzanol in cosmetic compositions, in particular in hair conditioning compositions, is known per se.

EP 0 937 449 describes hair cleansing compositions comprising γ-oryzanol and one or more calcium salts. The document discloses mainly the eprotective and/or repait effect on oxidatively damaged or to be damaged hair by using hair cleasing preparations comprising γ-oryzanol together with one or more calcium salts. The document does not show at all any anhydrous bleaching and/or brightening compositions.

EP 1 074 239 discloses cleansing composition comprising γ-oryzanol, and one or more calcium salts with low metal ion concentration. The document is solely on cleansing preparations and does not show at all any anhydrous bleaching and/or brightening compositions.

DE 44 21 038 A1 discloses sun protection compositions comprising γ-oryzanol.

In view of this state of the art, the improved bleaching effect provided by the addition of γ-oryzanol to bleaching compositions was not to be expected, in particular in the event of application onto previously damaged hair, whereby the cosmetic properties of the hair such as gloss, texture and elasticity are also improved.

The preferred use concentrations of γ-oryzanol ranges from about 0.001% to 5%, in particular about 0.01% to 2.5%, especially preferred about 0.01% to 1% by weight, calculated to the total bleaching powder composition (excluding the oxidation agent).

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the bleaching and brightening powders are used as dust-free products present as granules or agglomerates.

These can, for example, be those products disclosed in EP-A 560 088, which contain an oil or a liquid wax, whereby application of this oil or wax is preferably carried out in a spraying process.

According to the invention, it is also possible to use dust-free bleaching powders prepared according to EP-A 630 643 by agglomerating the initially pulverulent components by spraying onto these molten waxes or C₁₀-C₁₈-fatty acid alkanolamides, or by melting the same together at increased temperatures.

In addition to the active component, the bleaching agent compositions also contain the components customarily used in such compositions:

In the event the preparation is a powder, in particular inert pulverulent carrier materials, these are for example, pyrogenic silicon dioxide, starch powder, etc., alkalizing agents, such as sodium metasilicate, surface-active substances, binding agents, etc. In order to avoid repetition, reference is made to the respective standard literature, for example, K. Schrader, “Grundlagen und Rezepturen der Kosmetika”, 2^(nd) Ed. (1989, Hüthig Buchverlag), pages 815 to 823.

Peroxides are used as active components. Useful as such are in particular persulfates such as sodium and potassium persulfate, ammonium persulfate, earth alkali peroxides such as magnesium peroxide, melamine peroxide or urea peroxide or phtholimidoperoxy-hexanic acid.

The proportion of peroxides is at least 10%, preferably at least 20% to about 80%, calculated to the total composition.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the bleaching compositions can also comprise 0.1% to 10% by weight, calculated to the total composition, of one or more ammonium salts.

Suitable ammonium salts are ammonium carbonate, ammonium hydrogen carbonate, ammonium carbamate, ammonium chloride, ammonium sulfate, ammonium phosphates, ammonium nitrate, ammonium bromide, ammonium iodide, ammonium thiosulfate, ammonium molybdate, ammonium vanadate, ammonium sulfamate, ammonium citrate, ammonium salicylate, ammonium valerate, ammonium artrate, ammonium benzoate, ammonium acetate, ammonium formiate and ammonium lactate.

Preferred thereof are the ammonium phosphates, such as NH₄H₂PO₄, (NH₄)₂HPO₄, (NH₄)₂NaPO₄, NaNH₄HPO₄ or NH₄Na₂PO₄, ammonium chloride, ammonium sulfate and diammonium hydrogen citrate, as well as ammonium chloride, preferably in an amount from 0.1% to 10% by weight, calculated to the total composition.

As known from EP 609 796 A2, the ammonium compounds can also be used as sole bleaching agent in respectively higher amounts.

The proportion of the bleaching or brightening compounds in total preferably ranges from about 5% to about 75%, in particular about 25% and about 60% by weight, in reference to the brightening and bleaching powder.

The particle sizes of the bleaching compositions according to the invention generally range below 1 mm, preferably below 500 microns, for example, less than 400 microns, in particular about 25 to about 100 μm, thus ensuring excellent processing capability, i.e. mixability with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution prior to application onto human hair.

Application of the composition is carried out in the customary manner known per se. The pulverulent brightening composition is mixed homogenously with a 6 percent to 12 percent hydrogen peroxide solution, preferably in a proportion of about one part by weight of the powder to about 0.5 to about 4 parts, in particular about 1 part to about 2.5 parts by weight of the peroxide solution or lotion, and subsequently left on the hair to process for about 10 to about 60 minutes, in particular about 20 to 30 minutes, depending on the temperature.

Application may also be carried out in a manner wherein the bleaching powder and the hydrogen peroxide solution are mixed with a cream base, this homogenous mixture then being applied onto the hair.

The composition is preferably adjusted at such levels that upon admixture with the aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution, it achieves a pH-value of about 8 to about 11.5, in particular between 9 and 11 in the ready-to-use mixture.

The following Examples illustrate the invention.

EXAMPLE 1

a) Brightening Powder Silicon dioxide 16.27 (% by wt.) Ammonium chloride 14.70 Sodium carbonate 10.00 Sodium metasilicate 2.30 Phthalimidoperoxyhexanic acid 41.50 Sodium persulfate 15.20 γ-oryzanol 0.10

This composition is mixed in a weight proportion of 1:2.5:2.5 with an H₂O₂ lotion b) and a cream base c):

b) Hydrogen Peroxide Lotion Hydrogen peroxide 6.00 (% by wt.) Cetyl stearyl alcohol 1.70 Phosphoric acid 0.50 Sodium lauryl sulfate 0.20 γ-oryzanol 0.05 Disodium hydrogen phosphate 0.10 Salicylic acid 0.10 Water ad 100.00

c) Cream Base Cetyl stearyl alcohol 11.0 (% by wt.) Oleth-5 5.0 Oleic acid 2.5 Stearamide MEA 2.3 Cocoamide MEA 2.3 Sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate 1.2 1.2-Propyleneglycol 1.0 1.2-Propyleneglycol stearate 0.6 Sodium lauryl sulfate 0.5 Wheat protein hydrolyzate 0.9 Organopolysiloxane 0.4 Panthenol 0.6 Perfume 0.4 Complexing agent 0.2 Water ad 100.0

The pH-value of this mixture was 9.0.

Upon application this mixture showed an excellent, even bleaching effect with good wet and dry combability and excellent gloss; substantial hair damage was not apparent on strands of undamaged human hair.

Omission of the γ-oryzanol in the compositions led to a reduced, less even bleaching effect and reduced conditioning of the hair.

EXAMPLE 2

Bleaching Powder Kieselguhr 2.60 (% by wt.) Sodium carboxymethyl cellulose 2.50 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 1.60 Sodium lauryl sulfate 2.50 Sodium stearate 1.60 Protein hydrolyzate 0.60 Starch 1.00 Sodium carbonate 0.60 Sodium metasilicate 9.00 Polyvinyl pyrrolidone K90 3.20 Coco fatty acid monoethanolamide 9.80 (NH₄)₂HPO₄ 2.00 Magnesium peroxide 3.80 Potassium persulfate 8.00 Sodium persulfate 50.00 Organopolysiloxane 1.00 γ-oryzanol 0.20

A dust-free powder is obtained, which shows good capabilities of being mixed with a known 6% H₂O₂-solution in a weight proportion of 1:1.

The pH-value of this mixture is 9.0.

Upon application, this mixture also showed an excellent, even bleaching effect with good wet and dry combability and excellent gloss; substantial hair damage did not appear on strands of undamaged human hair.

Omission of the γ-oryzanol resulted in a clearly reduced bleaching effect.

EXAMPLE 3

Dust-Free Bleaching Powder Silicon dioxide (diatomaceous earth) 3.20 (% by wt.) Silicon dioxide (pyrogenic SiO₂) 5.25 Sodium carboxymethyl cellulose 3.50 Urea 2.00 Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate 0.80 Sodium stearate 1.20 Sodium carbonate 1.00 Sodium metasilicate 6.00 Starch powder 3.50 Potassium persulfate 57.00 Magnesium peroxide 4.00 Organopolysiloxane 1.00 γ-oryzanol 0.05 Paraffin oil (Paraffinum perliquidum, 11.50 DAB 9)

The powder was prepared by spraying the paraffin oil onto the basic powder mass in a fluidizing bed generator at about 20° C.

A dust-free powder is obtained, which shows good capability of being mixed with a known 6% H₂O₂ solution in a weight proportion of 1:1.

99% of the particles had a diameter of <400 microns.

The bleaching effect and gloss of the hair are excellent with good wet and dry combability, there was no evidence of essential hair damage.

Omission of the γ-oryzanol led to a reduced and less even bleaching effect; the hair showed a rougher texture and reduced wet and dry combability.

EXAMPLE 4

Dust-Free Bleaching Agglomerate Silicon dioxide (diatomaceous earth) 3.20 (% by wt.) Silicon dioxide (pyrogenic SiO₂) 5.30 Sodium carboxymethyl cellulose 3.50 Urea 2.00 Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate 0.80 Sodium stearate 1.20 Sodium carbonate 1.00 Sodium metasilicate 6.00 Starch powder 4.40 Sodium persulfate 39.50 Potassium persulfate 14.02 Magnesium peroxide 4.00 Cocomonoethanolamide 15.00 γ-oryzanol 0.20

The powder was prepared by heating the above mixture to a temperature of 70° C. to 75° C. in a fluidizing bed generator and subsequent cooling.

A dust-free powder was obtained, which had good capability of being mixed with a known 9% H₂O₂ solution in a weight proportion of 1:1.5.

99% of the particles had a diameter of <400 microns.

The bleaching effect achieved on the hair was even and excellent with good wet and dry combability of the hair; substantial hair damage was not in evidence.

Omission of the γ-oryzanol led to a reduced conditioning and bleaching effect.

EXAMPLE 5

Dust-free Bleaching Powder Pyrogenic silica (aerosil) 4.00 (Parts by wt.) Hydroxyethyl cellulose 1.70 Polyvinyl pyrrolidone 4.00 Tetrasodium-EDTA 2.00 Sodium stearate 1.25 Sodium carbonate 1.00 Ammonium persulfate 8.00 Magnesium peroxide 10.00 Potassium persulfate 44.00 Sodium metasilicate 11.50 Sodium lauryl sulfate 0.50 Organopolysiloxane graft copolymer 1.00 γ-oryzanol 0.15 Paraffin oil, sprayed 11.00

The powder was mixed with an aqueous 6% H₂O₂ composition in a proportion of 1:1 and the mixture was applied onto the hair. After completed processing, washing and drying, the hair thus treated showed good and even bleaching with unobtrusive gloss, soft texture and good wet and dry combability.

Omission of the γ-oryzanol led to a reduced conditioning and bleaching effect.

EXAMPLE 6

Bleaching powder Silica 2.00 Hydroxyethycellulose 3.00 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.20 Sodium stearate 1.30 Sodium carbonate 0.90 Ammonium persulfate 18.00 Potassium persulfate 40.00 Sodium metasilicate 11.50 Sodium laurylsulfate 0.50 Mineral oil (Paraffinum liquidum) 9.00 γ-oryzanol 0.15 Diatomaceous earth to 100.00

The powder was mixed with an aqueous 6% H₂O₂ composition in a proportion of 1:1 and the mixture was applied onto the hair. After completed processing, washing and drying, the hair thus treated showed good and even bleaching with unobtrusive gloss, soft texture and good wet and dry combability.

Omission of γ-oryzanol led to a reduced conditioning and bleaching effect. The hair treated with this bleaching agent was dull and did not have any strength, elasticity.

EXAMPLE 7

Bleaching powder Silica 2.00 Starch 1.00 Hydroxyethycellulose 3.00 Tetrasodium EDTA 0.20 Sodium stearate 1.30 Sodium carbonate 0.90 Sodium persulfate 5.00 Ammonium persulfate 13.00 Potassium persulfate 40.00 Sodium metasilicate 11.50 Sodium laurylsulfate 0.50 Mineral oil (Paraffinum liquidum) 9.00 γ-oryzanol 0.30 Diatomaceous earth to 100.00

The powder was mixed with an aqueous 6% H₂O₂ composition in a proportion of 1:1 and the mixture was applied onto the hair. After completed processing, washing and drying, the hair thus treated showed good and even bleaching with unobtrusive gloss, soft texture and good wet and dry combability.

Omission of γ-oryzanol led to a reduced conditioning and bleaching effect. The hair treated with this bleaching agent was dull and did not have any strength, elasticity. 

1. Water-free composition for the bleaching of human hair, comprising at least one compound with bleaching or brightening effect chosen from the group consisting of a peroxide and an ammonium salt, and γ-oryzanol at a concentration of 0.001% to 5% by weight, calculated to the total composition, said composition being in powder form.
 2. Composition according to claim 1 comprising γ-oryzanol at a concentration of 0.01% to 2.5% by weight, calculated to the total composition.
 3. Process for bleaching of human hair, wherein a water-free composition in powder form (A), comprising at least one bleaching or brightening compound chosen from the group consisting of a peroxide and an ammonium salt and γ-oryzanol at a concentration of 0.001% to 5% by weight, calculated to the total composition, is first mixed with an aqueous hydrogen peroxide composition (B), and applied to the hair and after 10 to 60 min processing time rinsed off with water. 